Winter Storage & Maintenance for Austin Healeys

1. Clean, Dry & De-Salt

Start where every restoration begins: with the muck.

Wash the bodywork and underside thoroughly, paying attention to wheel arches, rear spring hangers and sill seams. Winter roads leave a fine layer of salt dust that eats through even the best paint or underseal.

Dry the car properly — run it briefly after washing to evaporate trapped water, or use compressed air in seams. Then store only when completely dry.

2. Control the Climate

Garages protect from weather, but not from moisture. Aim for roughly 45–50% relative humidity; much above 55% encourages rust and mould, while very dry conditions over long periods can be hard on some trim and seals. Desiccant dehumidifiers generally work better than compressor types in cold, unheated garages.

If your Healey must live outside, invest in a breathable, water-resistant cover, not a plastic tarp that traps condensation. Air the car occasionally on dry days — yes, that means braving the cold with a cuppa and peeling back the cover for half an hour.

Concrete garages: ensure there’s ventilation. Air bricks are ideal; if none are fitted, consider adding two small vents to the garage door (one low, one high) to encourage airflow and prevent stagnant, damp air around the car.

If your garage has power, consider using an electric dehumidifier set to maintain around 50% humidity. This is usually a sensible balance between protection and energy use. For example, a 350-watt unit uses 0.35 kWh per hour. Multiply that by your electricity tariff to estimate the running cost accurately.

Remember that storing your Healey in a garage shared with household appliances such as washing machines, tumble dryers, fridges, or freezers will increase humidity levels — creating ideal conditions for rust and mould. Keep these appliances elsewhere if possible, or ensure good airflow and a dedicated dehumidifier.

For owners who prefer a fully controlled environment, the Indoor Ventilated Car Care Port from A H Spares uses three filtered fans to keep air moving around your Healey, preventing condensation even beneath the car. Strong, simple to assemble, and easy to store, it’s an efficient way to keep your Healey dry all winter.

3. Battery & Electrics

Lead-acid batteries hate the cold almost as much as Lucas hates a poor earth. Either remove the battery and store it indoors, or keep it connected to a smart maintainer. It stops sulphation and prevents freezing (a flat battery can freeze solid).

Clean the terminals and earth straps — especially the braided strap from gearbox to chassis. Resistance builds corrosion, and corrosion builds character (of the wrong kind).

Earths & protection: Check the engine-to-frame earth cable is in good condition. Clean both contact points back to bright metal and refit. Protect exposed electrical connections with a light coat of calcium-based white grease or petroleum jelly to keep moisture at bay without affecting conductivity.

LED Lighting Upgrade

Shorter days? Time to see and be seen. Consider an LED lighting upgrade to improve visibility and reduce electrical load

A H Spares supplies LED Conversion Kits for Healeys designed to fit existing housings. 

Legal note: Vehicles first used before 1 April 1986 must not be failed at MOT for the “light source and lamp not compatible” defect. Converted halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 can still fail, so later cars should only use fully compliant lighting setups.

4. Fuel – Avoid the E10 Hangover

Ethanol absorbs moisture like a sponge. For winter storage:

• Fill the tank with E5 (Super Unleaded) if available.
• Add a fuel stabiliser to slow oxidation and keep the SUs varnish-free.
• Run the engine briefly to pull treated fuel through the carbs and pump.

Brimming the tank with E5 (Super Unleaded) plus a quality stabiliser is the best approach for a typical winter lay-up (up to 6 months). A full tank minimises air space, reducing condensation and internal corrosion, while the stabiliser slows oxidation and protects the fuel system.

Avoid storing on E10 if you can — its higher ethanol content absorbs moisture and can promote phase separation during long rests. If E5 isn’t available, use E10 only with stabiliser and plan a spring drain-and-refill.

Draining the tank completely is generally not recommended for normal winter storage because the empty, vented tank can sweat and corrode, and dried seals may shrink. It’s only a consideration for very long storage (12+ months) when you can fully drain, dry, and protect the system correctly.

If you’re unsure how modern fuels affect classic components, our recent blog explains everything you need to know about E10 fuel and its effects on classic cars — including which hoses and seals are most at risk, and how to prevent damage over winter.

5. Oil & Coolant – Change Before, Not After

Used oil contains acids and moisture. Change it before storage – fresh oil coats internals and prevents corrosion.

Flush and refill the cooling system with a 50/50 IAT ethylene-glycol mix (usually blue). We recommend Millers Alpine Blue Concentrate Antifreeze — a monoethylene glycol (MEG) coolant using Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) that’s free from nitrates, amines and phosphates. It offers proven corrosion protection for steel, cast iron, brass, aluminium and soldered joints, making it ideal for classic Healey cooling systems. When mixed 50/50 with deionised water, it provides up to two years’ protection against frost, corrosion and overheating.

Modern OAT antifreeze is generally avoided in older Healeys with copper/brass radiators and soldered joints unless the whole cooling system has been updated and compatibility is confirmed.

6. Brakes & Clutch

Hydraulic fluids absorb moisture. If your brake fluid is more than two years old, change it – it’s cheaper than rebuilding calipers.

When parked for long periods:

• Leave the handbrake off and use wheel chocks.
• For over-winter checks, pump the pedals occasionally to keep seals supple.

7. Tyres, Suspension & Underside

Inflate tyres a few PSI higher than normal. Move the car a quarter turn monthly to avoid flat-spots, or rest it on tyre cradles.

Inspect for perished sidewalls; old cross-plies love to split in the cold. For winter driving, consider a period-correct winter tyre like the Vredestein Snow Classic (155/15 or 165/15). They actually grip when the mercury drops.

After any winter outing, rinse the underside with clean water. Healey chassis rails and outriggers are salt magnets.

8. Interior, Trim & Weather Seals

Damp inside the cabin causes mould on seats and green fuzz on steering wheels. Remove carpets and dry them thoroughly. Place moisture traps or silica bags inside, but never sit them directly on leather.

Lubricate door, bonnet and boot seals with silicone grease or plain petroleum jelly – both stop the rubber freezing to painted surfaces and keep it supple. Petroleum jelly washes off easily with warm, soapy water in spring.

9. Rodent Defence

Winter garages are five-star accommodation for mice, and Healey seat foam and wiring looms are their idea of a tasting menu. Keep the space tidy, remove any food sources, and use enclosed, humane-style traps (or sealed stations) around the car if needed. Peppermint oil smells nice but won’t save your wiring.

10. The “Don’t Start It for a Minute” Rule

Short-run starts in winter cause more harm than good. Condensation builds up, exhausts rust internally, and oil never gets hot enough to burn off water.

If you must run it, take the Healey for a proper 20-minute drive on a dry, salt-free day. Otherwise, leave it alone – your engine will thank you.

11. Body & Paint Care

A good wax or polymer sealant before storage protects paint from damp. After washing and drying the car, apply a quality wax polish to the paint and chrome, buff it off, then apply your chosen protective coating.

Chrome & brightwork: Petroleum jelly is a great alternative if you don’t want to use an oily rag. Smear a thin layer over the chrome before storage — it protects against moisture, and washes off easily with warm, soapy water when you’re ready to shine again.

Grease exposed threads on bumpers and suspension fasteners to make future adjustments painless.

12. Cover Up, but Let It Breathe

Use a soft, breathable indoor cover if garaged, or an outdoor multi-layer breathable cover if the car lives outside.

Never use a fully waterproof tarpaulin; it traps moisture and promotes rust from the inside out.

Browse A H Spares Car Covers

Designed for Healey proportions — from 100s to Sprites — so you can cover up properly this winter. Shop your car cover today!