The Original Austin Healey Parts Specialist
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Winter Storage & Maintenance for Austin Healeys

Posted: Thursday, 6 November 2025 @ 13:00
Austin Healey winter storage in ventilated garage with cover and dehumidifier

Keep the Cold Out – and the Healey Happy

Winter is the season when smart Healey owners quietly out-wit the weather.

At A H Spares, we’ve seen too many 100s, 3000s and Sprites emerge from hibernation looking like they’ve spent the winter at the bottom of a salt mine. A little foresight now saves endless frustration (and invoices) come spring.

Whether your car will hibernate in a heated garage, or stoically face the elements under a cover on the drive, this guide will walk you through what really works — not just the usual “throw a sheet over it and hope” routine.

Why Bother? – Key Benefits

  • Stops corrosion before it starts – salt, condensation and trapped grime are Healey enemies.
  • Preserves electrics and battery life – cold kills voltage; smart charging keeps Lucas from sulking.
  • Prevents fuel and fluid decay – E10 petrol and old coolant do more damage sitting still than moving.
  • Protects tyres, suspension & brakes – no flat-spots, no seized drums.
  • Saves time and money – because pre-spring shouldn’t start with “why won’t it crank?”
Breathable fitted car cover on Austin Healey in garage

See our range of breathable Healey car covers

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Workshop bench with Austin Healey tools and winter storage checklist

The A H Spares Workshop Approach to Winter Storage

Cleaning salt from Austin Healey wheel arch and sill seam before storage

1. Clean, Dry & De-Salt

Start where every restoration begins: with the muck.

Wash the bodywork and underside thoroughly, paying attention to wheel arches, rear spring hangers and sill seams. Winter roads leave a fine layer of salt dust that eats through even the best paint or underseal.

Dry the car properly — run it briefly after washing to evaporate trapped water, or use compressed air in seams. Then store only when completely dry.

Healey hint:

The front shroud seam on a 100/3000 traps water behind the grille. A quick blast with a hairdryer (ask permission first) saves you a weekend of rust repairs later.

Vintage-style illustration of a classic Austin-Healey 3000 in a warm, well-ventilated 1960s British garage on a winter night, with misty air streams, polished concrete floor, and soft golden lighting highlighting the car’s chrome details.

2. Control the Climate

Garages protect from weather, but not from moisture. Aim for 40–60 % relative humidity; below that, leather cracks, above that, rust blooms. Desiccant dehumidifiers work better in unheated garages than compressor types.

If your Healey must live outside, invest in a breathable, water-resistant cover, not a plastic tarp that traps condensation. Air the car occasionally on dry days — yes, that means braving the cold with a cuppa and peeling back the cover for half an hour.

Concrete garages: ensure there’s ventilation. Air bricks are ideal; if none are fitted, consider adding two small vents to the garage door (one low, one high) to encourage airflow and prevent stagnant, damp air around the car.

For owners who prefer a fully controlled environment, the Indoor Ventilated Car Care Port from A H Spares uses three filtered fans to keep air moving around your Healey, preventing condensation even beneath the car. Strong, simple to assemble, and easy to store, it’s an efficient way to keep your Healey dry all winter.

Healey hint:

Avoid parking directly on bare concrete; it wicks damp. A cheap sheet of rubber matting or carpet under the tyres and chassis rails does wonders. A sealed concrete garage without ventilation is basically a fridge with bonus rust — a little airflow keeps the Healey (and the smell) fresher.

Vintage-style 1950s gouache illustration of a classic 12-volt car battery on a wooden workbench, lit by a warm desk lamp with steam rising from a mug beside it, in a cozy winter garage — mid-century automotive art inspired by Art Fitzpatrick and Van Kaufman.

3. Battery & Electrics

Lead-acid batteries hate the cold almost as much as Lucas hates a poor earth. Either remove the battery and store it indoors, or keep it connected to a smart maintainer. It stops sulphation and prevents freezing (a flat battery can freeze solid).

Clean the terminals and earth straps — especially the braided strap from gearbox to chassis. Resistance builds corrosion, and corrosion builds character (of the wrong kind).

Earths & protection: Check the engine-to-frame earth cable is in good condition. Clean both contact points back to bright metal and refit. Protect exposed electrical connections with a light coat of calcium-based white grease or petroleum jelly to keep moisture at bay without affecting conductivity.

LED Lighting Upgrade

Shorter days? Time to see and be seen. Consider an LED lighting upgrade to improve visibility and reduce electrical load

A H Spares supplies LED Conversion Kits for Healeys designed to fit existing housings. 

Legal note: Vehicles first used before 1 April 1986 can use LED headlamp conversions without MOT grief; later vehicles require complete, approved LED units.

Healey hint:

After fitting LEDs, check the indicator flash rate – you may need an electronic flasher to keep within MOT-spec 60-120 flashes per minute. A poor earth on a Healey isn’t just an electrical issue — it’s a personality trait. Clean, grease, and refit your earth strap and Lucas will be far less moody come spring.

Vintage Shell petrol pump from the 1950s

4. Fuel – Avoid the E10 Hangover

Ethanol absorbs moisture like a sponge. For winter storage:

  • Fill the tank with E5 (Super Unleaded) if available.
  • Add a fuel stabiliser to slow oxidation and keep the SUs varnish-free.
  • Run the engine briefly to pull treated fuel through the carbs and pump.

Brimming the tank reduces condensation, so you don’t open the filler in March to find a small biology experiment growing inside.

If you’re unsure how modern fuels affect classic components, our recent blog explains everything you need to know about E10 fuel and its effects on classic cars — including which hoses and seals are most at risk, and how to prevent damage over winter.

Healey hint:

If your car still has original rubber hoses, swap them for ethanol-resistant ones – old black hoses can turn to treacle after a winter on modern fuel.

Mid-century style illustration of a gloved hand removing a radiator cap from a classic Austin Healey 3000 engine — rendered in gouache with nostalgic 1950s automotive artwork aesthetic.

5. Oil & Coolant – Change Before, Not After

Used oil contains acids and moisture. Change it before storage – fresh oil coats internals and prevents corrosion.

Flush and refill the cooling system with a 50/50 IAT ethylene-glycol mix (usually blue). We recommend Millers Alpine Blue Concentrate Antifreeze — a monoethylene glycol (MEG) coolant using Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) that’s free from nitrates, amines and phosphates. It offers proven corrosion protection for steel, cast iron, brass, aluminium and soldered joints, making it ideal for classic Healey cooling systems. When mixed 50/50 with deionised water, it provides up to two years’ protection against frost, corrosion and overheating.

Modern OAT antifreeze can attack copper/brass radiators and old solder joints, so avoid unless your car’s been upgraded with alloy components.

Healey hint:

On 100s and early 3000s, the heater valve tends to seize after long inactivity. Work it through a few times now and you’ll avoid a scalded-hand lesson in spring.

1950s-style illustration of an Austin Healey 3000 rear wheel with chrome wire spokes and two-eared spinner hub, parked on a glossy garage floor with a wooden wheel chock — rendered in a nostalgic gouache painting style with mid-century detail and reflections.

6. Brakes & Clutch

Hydraulic fluids absorb moisture. If your brake fluid is more than two years old, change it – it’s cheaper than rebuilding calipers.

When parked for long periods:

  • Leave the handbrake off and use wheel chocks.
  • For over-winter checks, pump the pedals occasionally to keep seals supple.

Healey hint:

A 100’s rear drums can weld themselves to the shoes if left engaged; the resulting bang when freeing them is enough to wake the neighbours – and not in a good way.

1950s-style gouache illustration of an Austin Healey chrome wire wheel on a vintage Firestone tyre stand, with a second Healey and chrome bumper in the background — nostalgic mid-century garage or showroom scene with warm lighting and retro detail.

7. Tyres, Suspension & Underside

Inflate tyres a few PSI higher than normal. Move the car a quarter turn monthly to avoid flat-spots, or rest it on tyre cradles.

Inspect for perished sidewalls; old cross-plies love to split in the cold. For winter driving, consider a period-correct winter tyre like the Vredestein Snow Classic (155/15 or 165/15). They actually grip when the mercury drops.

After any winter outing, rinse the underside with clean water. Healey chassis rails and outriggers are salt magnets.

Healey hint:

Check rear spring shackles and the front wishbone pivots for play – salt and old grease make a perfect grinding paste.

Green Austin Healey with open window

8. Interior, Trim & Weather Seals

Damp inside the cabin causes mould on seats and green fuzz on steering wheels. Remove carpets and dry them thoroughly. Place moisture traps or silica bags inside, but never sit them directly on leather.

Lubricate door, bonnet and boot seals with silicone grease or plain petroleum jelly – both stop the rubber freezing to painted surfaces and keep it supple. Petroleum jelly washes off easily with warm, soapy water in spring.

Healey hint:

Early Sprite and Midget owners — crack the sidescreens open a few millimetres under cover to help airflow. If your car has the later winding windows (BJ7/BJ8 Big Healeys and later Sprites/Midgets), leave a vent or quarterlight ajar instead. It keeps condensation from settling inside.

Humorous 1950s-style gouache illustration of two cute mice chewing a classic Austin Healey car seat while the shocked owner stands in the garage doorway holding a mug, rendered in vintage Art Fitzpatrick & Van Kaufman style.

9. Rodent Defence

Winter garages are five-star accommodation for mice. They love seat foam and wiring looms equally. Block entry holes, clear food sources, and set traps if needed. Peppermint oil smells lovely but doesn’t pay for rewiring.

Healey hint:

Big Healeys often have small unsealed openings around the rear lamp wiring or fuel-filler neck where the boot meets the inner wing. Fit fresh grommets or mesh over any gaps — otherwise, you may discover your spare wheel’s been turned into rodent real estate.

Crisp winter drive in a blue Austin Healey 3000

10. The “Don’t Start It for a Minute” Rule

Short-run starts in winter cause more harm than good. Condensation builds up, exhausts rust internally, and oil never gets hot enough to burn off water.

If you must run it, take the Healey for a proper 20-minute drive on a dry, salt-free day. Otherwise, leave it alone – your engine will thank you.

Healey hint:

Resist the urge to “just give it a blip.” Short, cold starts cause more wear than a proper drive ever will. If you really must hear it run, make sure it reaches full temperature — oil pressure steady, thermostat open — or you’re just inviting condensation to turn your sump into a teapot.

Smiling classic car owner polishing his blue Austin-Healey 3000 with bonnet open on a sunny autumn day, wearing vintage-style jacket and scarf — celebrating British motoring heritage and Healey restoration pride.

11. Body & Paint Care

A good wax or polymer sealant before storage protects paint from damp. After washing and drying the car, apply a quality wax polish to the paint and chrome, buff it off, then apply your chosen protective coating.

Chrome & brightwork: Petroleum jelly is a great alternative if you don’t want to use an oily rag. Smear a thin layer over the chrome before storage — it protects against moisture, and washes off easily with warm, soapy water when you’re ready to shine again.

Grease exposed threads on bumpers and suspension fasteners to make future adjustments painless.

Healey hint:

Don’t forget the bonnet latch mechanism – a seized latch in March is the kind of surprise that ruins your Sunday.

Two Austin Healey classic cars stored in a tidy 1960s-style garage under breathable fabric covers, softly lit by warm morning light — illustration showing proper winter car storage and ventilation.

12. Cover Up, but Let It Breathe

Use a soft, breathable indoor cover if garaged, or an outdoor multi-layer breathable cover if the car lives outside.

Never use a fully waterproof tarpaulin; it traps moisture and promotes rust from the inside out.

Browse A H Spares Car Covers

Designed for Healey proportions — from 100s to Sprites — so you can cover up properly this winter. Shop your car cover today!

Preparing for pre-Spring checks before taking her out.

Pre-Spring Afterthoughts – Wake Up the Right Way

When the clocks change and the smell of petrol seems acceptable again, resist the urge to just “fire it up and go.”

  1. Reconnect the battery and check voltage; a few seconds on the starter with plugs out circulates oil.
  2. Fluids – check brake, clutch, coolant and engine oil levels; look for leaks under the car.
  3. Tyres – reset pressures to running spec, inspect for flat-spots or cracks.
  4. Brakes – pressurise the system before moving; don’t discover seized pistons at the first junction.
  5. Lights – test everything, especially after LED conversions.
  6. Carbs – top up dashpot oil and watch for sticking floats.
  7. First drive – short, gentle, local. Bring it up to temperature, listen for suspension knocks and clutch chatter.

When all feels well, reward yourself with the first proper spring blast. Just don’t forget to re-wax it before the bugs arrive.

If you’ve stored your Healey in our Indoor Ventilated Car Care Port, give the fans and filters a quick clean before packing it away. It’ll be ready for duty again next winter — and you’ll avoid that “why is it buzzing?” moment in November.

Common Questions

Should I leave the handbrake off in storage? Yes – always. Leave the car in gear (or Park) and chock the wheels. Leaving the handbrake on compresses the shoes against the drums, which then seize as moisture condenses. Freeing them off later usually involves colourful language and a hammer.
Is E10 fuel safe in my Healey? For short-term use, yes, but avoid long storage with E10. Ethanol absorbs moisture and attacks older rubbers and solder joints. Use E5 (Super Unleaded) with a stabiliser and brim the tank before laying up.
Can I fit LED headlamps and still pass MOT? If your Healey was first used before 1 April 1986, LED conversions are acceptable as long as the beam pattern and alignment are correct. Post-1986 cars need complete, approved LED units. Indicators, tail, stop and side lamps may be LED if brightness and colour remain compliant.
How often should I run the car over winter? Take it out occasionally, but make each outing count. Choose a dry, salt-free day and drive for 20–30 minutes so the oil and exhaust reach full temperature (steady oil pressure, thermostat open). Avoid short cold starts or long idling. If you won’t be doing that regularly, keep the battery on a smart maintainer and turn the engine over by hand monthly. After any winter run, rinse the underside to remove any salt.
What humidity should I aim for in my garage? Between 40 % and 60 % RH. Too damp invites rust, too dry cracks leather. Desiccant dehumidifiers perform best in cold, unheated spaces.

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